- Leeside Lanes: Episode 5
- From 18th-century merchant princes to modern-day cafés and craft beer, Farrens Quay and Popes Quay showcase Cork’s evolution while maintaining their riverside charm and community spirit.
Walking along Cork’s north bank where Farrens Quay flows into Popes Quay, visitors encounter living history at every step. These adjacent waterfront streets, stretching from Griffith Bridge to the city centre, have witnessed over 300 years of Cork life: from Georgian merchants building private wharves to Victorian butter traders dominating global markets, from devastating floods to Dominican friars establishing their spiritual home overlooking the Lee.
The quays’ story began in the early 1700s during Cork’s ambitious expansion beyond its medieval walls. Corporation records from November 1718 reveal the pivotal moment when Mary Pope, widow of merchant Thomas Pope, received permission to “build a quay between Alderman Brown’s Quay and Mr Farren’s Quay.” This single entry tells us that Farrens Quay already existed by 1718, making it the elder of the two, while the newly constructed stretch would honour the Pope family name.
The Merchant Princes of Farrens Quay
Farrens Quay, distinguished as Cork’s shortest quay, takes its name from Thomas Farren, a prominent merchant who rose to become Lord Mayor of Cork in 1736. The Farren family, known as “cultured patrons of the drama” with branches in both Cork and Dublin, exemplified the merchant prince era when wealthy traders literally built Cork’s waterfront infrastructure for their own commercial ventures.
Archaeological excavations in 2003 during the Shandon Area Streetscape Renewal uncovered fascinating remnants of this prosperity: limestone walls, post-medieval pottery dumps, and a curved wall possibly linked to an 18th-century bridge. The protected structure at 60/61 Shandon Street, with its 6m x 8m cellar built almost exclusively of large red sandstone slabs, dates to the early 18th century and represents the architectural legacy of this merchant expansion.
Today, Farrens Quay maintains its commercial character through professional services like Parfrey Murphy Chartered Accountants, while embracing cultural initiatives through Shandon Studios, which hosts artist residency programmes. The quay even boasts an unexpected piece of heritage: a cast-iron post box from 1965-1975, designated as regionally important for representing the final phase of cast-iron post boxes in Ireland.
Popes Quay: Faith and Commerce Intertwined
Popes Quay’s character has been defined since 1839 by the magnificent St. Mary’s Dominican Church, whose neoclassical facade dominates the riverside. Designed by Cork architect Kearns Deane (who provided his services free), the church marked Catholic resurgence following emancipation. Its foundation stone was laid in 1832, and when it opened on 20 October 1839, Daniel O’Connell himself attended the ceremony.
The church incorporates stones from the original 13th-century Dominican priory, creating a physical link to 1229 when the order first arrived in Cork. The adjacent priory, designed by William Atkins in 1850, serves as the novitiate for the Dominican Province of Ireland. Beyond religious services, St. Mary’s functions as a community hub, hosting counselling services, theology courses, and support groups including Alcoholics Anonymous and Narcotics Anonymous.
A Thriving Modern Community
Both quays have successfully adapted to 21st-century life while preserving their historic character. Current businesses reflect this evolution:
On Popes Quay, The Bierhaus (opened 2006) gained international recognition as the world’s third-best beer bar in 2007. Myo Café at No. 34 (established 2014) has evolved beyond coffee to host poetry nights and live music, even installing hand-carved stone chess tables along the quay wall. Iyer’s Café (c.2013) at No. 38 brings authentic South Indian cuisine to Cork, while traditional businesses like Cork Button Company at No. 4 maintain links to the past. Modern enterprises include C&L Business Systems (EPoS solutions) and KAesthetics at the Brazilian Business Centre.
The historic Civic Trust House at No. 50, a protected Georgian structure dating to 1730, now operates as shared workspace, demonstrating successful heritage adaptation. Planning permission for residential development at 40-41 Popes Quay promises to bring more life to the waterfront.
Living with the River Lee
The quays’ relationship with water defines their character. Before St. Patrick’s Bridge existed, ferries operated here, with 1713 Council records showing ferry rights leased at “a halfpenny per person or per load of goods.” This maritime heritage continues, though flooding remains a persistent challenge.
The Great Flood of March 1962 submerged both quays under four feet of water, while November 2009 brought devastation again. Storm Babet in 2023 reinforced this vulnerability. At just 15 metres above sea level, flood consciousness shapes community identity. The 2021 drowning tragedy of Luke Hyde at Popes Quay sparked calls for “Luke’s Law” and renewed discussions about river safety.
Architectural Heritage
Both quays showcase Cork’s distinctive building materials: pale limestone from quarries south of the Lee and red sandstone from the north. Victorian improvements by the Cork Harbour Commissioners (established 1814) created the ashlar limestone quay walls with tooled steps and cast-iron handrails that remain today.
Recent developments respect this heritage. The Kelleher brothers’ conversion of 60/61 Shandon Street works with conservation architects to preserve high ceilings and river views while creating modern apartments. The planned reopening of the Left Bank pub, described as “Cork’s only basement bar left in the city,” represents efforts to maintain authentic Cork culture.
Butter Trade Legacy
Both quays played crucial roles in Cork’s legendary butter trade, when the nearby Shandon Butter Exchange made Cork the global price-setter for dairy products. The Committee of Merchants, established 1769, maintained quality standards from their base near Farrens Quay. Firkins (wooden casks) of Cork butter departed these wharves for America, the West Indies, and Australia.
Looking Forward
As Cork evolves, Farrens Quay and Popes Quay demonstrate how historic spaces can serve contemporary needs without losing their soul. From Thomas Farren’s merchant wharf to Mary Pope’s ambitious construction project, from Dominican faith to craft beer excellence, these twin quays embody Cork’s ability to honour its past while embracing the future.
Whether you’re seeking spiritual solace at St. Mary’s, enjoying South Indian dosas, playing chess by the river, or simply walking where merchants once loaded butter bound for distant shores, these quays offer authentic Cork experiences where three centuries of history meet daily life along the Lee.